Orchids and other spectacular wildflowers, with Massif Nature, Weds 13^th – Weds 20th May 2009. 

The sites visited on this holiday will not only result in a large list of plants seen; the landscape is often spectacular, always beautiful, and the walking is generally easy.  

Day 1:  collection from airport and/or railway station, drive to Novacelles, our base in the Livradois hills.  This tiny village has just three houses permanently occupied.  It is situated in a quiet spot in the valley of the River Dolore, which flanks 3 sides of the village.  After arrival, and depending upon the time, we’ll take a stroll down into the village and along the river-bank to admire the scene, and the wildflowers, including Oxlip Primula elatior, Alternate-leaved Golden Saxifrage Chrysosplenium alternifolium, Lungwort Pulmonaria spp, Aconite-leaved Buttercup Ranunculus aconitifolius and Leopard’s Bane Doronicum austriacum.  A number of Bird Cherry Prunus padus trees should be in full flower.  The hay meadow situated between the house and the river will be ablaze with colour – with lots of Wood Cranesbill Geranium sylvaticum and Bistort Polygonum bistorta.  The broadleaved trees (mainly Ash and Beech) will have fresh, bright green foliage that contrasts wonderfully with the darker shades on the conifers (most commonly Scot’s Pine and Norway Spruce). 

Day 2: after your day of travel, we’ll not venture far today – the morning will be taken up by a circular walk, to admire the many hay meadows with Green-winged Orchid Orchis morio and Early Purple Orchid Orchis mascula, Poet’s Narcissus Narcissus poeticus, Cowslip Primula veris, Tassel Hyacinth Muscari comosum and much more besides.   Rock outcrops are adorned with mosses (including the Apple Moss Bartramia pomiformis) and lichens (including the spectacular Peltigera lactucifolia), and ferns which include Forked Spleenwort Asplenium septentrionale.  Butterflies: Green Hairstreak, Marsh Fritillary, Pearl-bordered Fritillary and Orange-tip.  Breeding birds will include Redstart, White Wagtail, Black Woodpecker, Tree Pipit and Serin.  Red-backed Shrikes might have returned from Africa by now.  Bloody-nosed Beetles are usually abundant at this time too.

In the afternoon, we’ll take a very short drive (5 minutes) to investigate a deserted riverside village, which nature has reclaimed (ash and oak woodland developing on the shallow soil) and where the ground-flora includes hundreds of Early-Purple Orchid Orchis mascula.  There will be splendid views across the Plain of Ambert towards the Forez Mountains.  Hay meadows at the entrance to the village have many Green-winged Orchids Orchis morio with a few Elder-flowered Orchids Dactylorhiza sambucina amongst them.  Marshlands nearby have a spectacular display of Broad-leaved marsh orchids (Dactylorhiza majalis) plus Viper’s-grass Scorzonera humilis.

Day 3: an excursion today to visit a site of multi-interest in a low-lying area in the Limagne Plain to the south of Issoire.  Deposition of Eocene (40 to 36 million years ago) and Oligocene (36 to 25 m.y.a) material in Auvergne occurred in troughs and basins, and in this down-faulted region there are substantial deposits of calcareous sediments.  We will first visit an area of multi-coloured (but predominately red) iron-rich Eocene clays, with some areas resisting erosion thanks to the overlying arkose sandstone deposits (Oligocene).  Where small fragments of this resistant rock are isolated from the main blocks, the result is the formation of statuesque figures – a column of red clay with a protective cap of grey sandstone.  These are very fragile though, and their shapes change on a daily basis in wet weather.  Elder-flowered Orchids are very common here.  Also, on a sunny south-facing slope are situated a number of small vineyards.  A patchwork of orchid-rich pasture, scrub and oak woodland complete the spectacular scene, with orchid species including Lady, Sword-leaved Helleborine, White Helleborine and Woodcock Orchid.  We should find the Green-underside Blue butterfly Glaucopsyche alexis.  Just nearby, there is a source of saline mineral water that makes for an interesting flora – that of a coastal salt-marsh, albeit on a very small scale.  Recently, numerous Roman coins were found at the bottom of the main well.  Surrounding woodlands are mixed Scots Pine Pinus sylvestris and Downy Oak Quercus pubescens, with an understorey of Hairy Greenweed Genista pubescens.  Bonelli’s Warbler Phylloscopus bonelli and Wood Warbler P. sibilatrix nest here in good numbers, along with some Hoopoe.  We will then go onto the chalk, here comprised of an area of sheep-grazed pasture and scrub with numerous springtime orchids: Burnt-tipped Orchis ustulata, Woodcock Ophrys scolopax, Elder-flowered Dactylorhiza sambucina, Pyramidal Anacamptis pyramidalis, Man Orchis anthropophora, Dull Ophrys sulcata, Fly O. insectifera, and the two Early Spider Orchids Ophrys aranifera and O. araneola (O. sphegodes ssp. araneola) included, plus the spectacular rosettes and seed-heads of the thistle Carlina acanthifolia. 

Day 4: to the volcanoes in the Chaine des Puys near Clermont Ferrand.  This spectacular area has been designated as a Regional Park.  The volcanism here is the result of frequent different periods of activity in the Tertiary and Quaternary eras, but with the most recent eruptions being just 6000 years ago.  We’ll wander around the base of two volcanoes, firstly in Beech woodland with a spectacularly-lush understorey that includes Cardamine heptaphylla, Scilla liliohyacinthus, Lily-of-the-Valley Convallaria majalis, Irish Spurge Euphorbia hyberna, Herb Paris Paris quadrifolia, Solomon’s Seal Polygonatum multiflorum, Whirled Solomon’s Seal P. verticillatum, Spurge Laurel Daphne laureola, Mezereon Daphne mezereum.  The one orchid here is Bird’s-nest Orchid Neottia nidus-avis.  We will then go on to the crater of a breeched volcano (easy walking) where Red Pasque Flower Pulsatilla rubra flourishes in clearings between Juniper Juniperus communis bushes.  Volcanic bombs and cinders abound here too, and the yellow crucifer Biscutella lamottei grows in profusion despite the inhospitable nature of the habitat.  If we are feeling fit, there will be the opportunity to clamber up the top of the rim of the crater, and obtain fabulous views across the whole chain of volcanoes 

Day 5: To an area to the west of Issoire with a very complex geology (mudslides, volcanic debris, lava flows, and fluvial sands and gravels) and thus a mixture of substrates resulting in a varied flora and fauna (notably on the dry, south-facing grassland slopes), plus troglodyte caves too, initially by Homo habilis over 2 million years ago, but more recently (19th century) by wine-growers (one dwelling was inhabited until 1945); it has been designated a Natura 2000 site, and commands good views over much of the region.  The spectacular Ascalaphid predatory insect Libelloides coccajus should be abundant.  Then we’ll go on to a spectacular mineral deposition at another (hillside) source of saline water – La Tete de Lion.  In the same valley, rock-outcrops are home to the spectacular St. Bernard’s Lily Anthericum liliago¸ and White Rockrose Helianthemum apenninum, Violet Broomrape Orobanche amethystea, and woodland areas contain the rare Fly Honeysuckle Lonicera xylosteum, Sword-leaved Helleborine Cephalanthera longifolia and Lady Orchid Orchis purpurea.  Then onto woodland on chalk, where we will find yet more Lady Orchids, plus the equally-spectacular Military Orchid (Orchis militaris), as well as Twayblade (Listera ovata), Fly Orchid and Field Cow-wheat Melampyrum arvense.  Butterflies here include Chequered Skipper Carterocephalus palaemon and Duke of Burgundy Hamearis lucina.   

Day 6: A day spent locally, with a trip to the market town of Ambert in the morning, where you will have some free time and be able to buy gifts and souvenirs should you so wish, and to savour the local fare (lunch isn’t provided on this day).  In the afternoon we’ll take a short drive to see the many Wild Daffodils Narcissus pseudonarcissus in the upland meadows, and perhaps a visit to the top of the Hautes-Chaumes (summer pastures) for the spectacular views and yet more daffodils.  The ascent takes us through spectacular Silver Fir Abies alba and Beech woodland bisected by mountain streams, and on to stunted beech woodland at the top.  The delicate May Lily Maianthemum bifolium is found here.  This will be an opportunity to try to see the elusive Citril Finch, and Hen Harrier.  If the weather is inclement, a walk along the banks of the River Dore will be rewarded with the site and scent of masses of Dame’s Violet (amongst many other species).     

Day 7: To a gorge of the River Allier and investigation of the flora of one of the spectacular basalt lava-flow outcrops there (including Round-headed Leek Allium sphaerocephalum, Alpine Lettuce Lactuca perennis, Prostrate Speedwell Veronica prostrata, Bastard Balm Melitta melissophyllum, and Yellow Vetch Vicia lutea, to name but a few) and of the wooded shingle banks of the river (where the rare cow-wheat Melampyrum vaudense grows).  Hay meadows en-route will be ablaze with colour: including pink of Jersey Thrift Armeria alliacea, purple of Meadow Clary Salvia pratensis.  A super area for butterflies too, including the superb Chequered Blue Scolitantides orion and Duke of Burgundy Hamearis lucina, along with the spectacular Club-tailed Dragonfly Gomphus vulgatissimus.  Breeding birds here include Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus, Hoopoe, Melodious Warbler, Bonelli’s Warbler, Raven, Rock Bunting and Cirl Bunting.  Another beautiful location with easy walking.

Day 8: depending upon flight/train times, a local walk in the morning or perhaps a stop en route to the airport/rail station. 

(The plant species mentioned above are just a tiny sample of the many that we will discover).

“Breeding birds of the Massif Central” with Massif Nature, 23^rd – 30^th May 2009. 

The sites visited on this holiday will not only result in a large list of birds seen – the landscape is often spectacular and the walking is generally easy.  

Day 1:  collection from airport and/or railway station, drive to Novacelles, our base in the Livradois hills.  This tiny village has just three houses permanently occupied.  It is situated in a quiet spot in the valley of the River Dolore, which flanks 3 sides of the village.  After arrival, and depending upon the time, we’ll take a stroll down into the village and along the river-bank to admire the scene, the wildflowers, and the birds. 

Day 2: after your day of travel, we’ll not go far today – the morning will be taken up by a circular walk from the house.  Breeding birds will include Honey Buzzard, Common Redstart, Black Redstart, White Wagtail, Black Woodpecker, Red-backed Shrike, Tree Pipit and Serin.  Butterflies will include Green Hairstreak, Marsh Fritillary, Pearl-bordered Fritillary and Orange-tip.  In the afternoon we’ll take a short drive to a deserted riverside village, where we hope to see the elusive Goshawk, plus Dipper, and Black Woodpecker.  Then we’ll take a stroll across an area of farmland with hedgerows and copses in search of breeding Hen Harrier and Great Grey Shrike.  In the evening we’ll venture out at dusk to watch our local breeding pair of Eagle Owls (with fledged young at this time), plus roding Woodcock, and various bats. 

Day 3: an excursion today to visit a site of multi-interest in a low-lying area in the Limagne Plain to the south of Issoire.  Deposition of Eocene (40 to 36 million years ago) and Oligocene (36 to 25 m.y.a) material in Auvergne occurred in troughs and basins, and in this downfaulted region there are substantial deposits of calcareous sediments.  We’ll take a gentle stroll on a hillside dotted with small vineyards, interspersed with wild-flower meadows, scrub and coppiced oak woodland.  The birdlife here is rich, including Black Kite, Montague’s Harrier, Honey Buzzard, Turtle Dove, Wryneck, Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, Nightingale, Melodious Warbler, Bonelli’s Warbler, Tree Sparrow, Serin, and Cirl Bunting.  The woodlands here contain lots of spectacular Lady Orchid (and other orchid species).   Butterflies include the beautiful Green-underside Blue. 

We will then go on just 2 kilometres to visit an area of multi-coloured Eocene clays, with some areas resisting erosion thanks to the overlying arkose sandstone deposits (Oligocene).  Where small fragments of this resistant rock are isolated from the main blocks, the result is the formation of statuesque figures – a column of red clay with a protective cap of grey sandstone.  These are very fragile though, and their shapes change on a daily basis in wet weather.  Just nearby, there is a source of saline water that was utilised by the Romans (recently numerous Roman coins were found at the bottom of the main source).  In the woodlands here, consisting mainly of Downy Oak Quercus pubescens, the understorey is sparse and provides suitable breeding habitat for Bonelli’s Warbler and Wood Warbler.  This is the best site known to Massif Nature for obtaining fabulous, close views of these birds.  Orchids here include Elder-flowered, Man and Lesser Butterfly.  From a high point overlooking a wooded valley we will hopefully obtain great views of Golden Oriole at eye-level, and along the hedgerows we will find Cirl Bunting.  Small copses contain nesting Hoopoe.  

Day 4: The day will start with a visit to a Bee-eater colony on the banks of the River Allier.  Nightingale, Melodious Warbler, Common Sandpiper and Black Kite too.  Then onto a section of the gorge where Rock Bunting, Hoopoe, and Bonelli’s Warbler breed.  We’ll do a lovely circular walk, along the riverbank (and have our picnic lunch there), and enjoy peace and tranquillity, wild flowers, butterflies and dragonflies in a great spot for naturalists.

Day 5: A land of lakes – The Forez Plain.  With masses of water-bodies, including two wetland nature reserves (one situated on the edge of the River Loire), this area boasts breeding Black-necked Grebe, Night Heron, Purple Heron, Whiskered Tern, Common Tern, Black-winged Stilt, Little Ringed Plover, Red-crested Pochard, Gadwall, Great Reed Warbler, Nightingale and Melodious Warbler, amongst many others.  Immature Great White Egrets regularly spend the summer here.  There are some bird-watching hides, and if a rainy day is forecast in the week we would go here on such a day.  There may be some migrating birds still on passage too, such as White-winged Black Tern, Spotted Redshank, Squacco Heron, etc. 

Day 6: A day spent locally, with a trip to the market town of Ambert in the morning, where you will have some free time and be able to buy gifts and souvenirs should you so wish, and to savour the local fare (lunch isn’t provided on this day).  In the afternoon, we’ll take a very short drive (10 minutes) to the Plain of Ambert, with spectacular views of the Forez Mountains on one side and the Livradois Hills on the other.  Hay meadows on the plain will be ablaze with colour, and most notably the pink of Ragged Robin, and yellow of Meadow Buttercup, and have breeding Lapwing.  The wooded areas (Alder carr, various Poplars, and scrub) have breeding Grey Heron, Black Kite, Melodious Warbler, Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, Great Grey Shrike, and Golden Oriole, amongst others, with Dipper, Kingfisher and Grey Wagtail along the river.  Masses of the wonderfully-scented Dame’s Violet adorn the riverbanks. 

Day 7: To another gorge of the River Allier, with a visit to a really spectacular basalt outcrop there.  We’ll investigate the hillside scrub and woodland, and the shingle banks of the river.  Sitting beside the river, and looking up at the spectacular rock formations, we’ll be treated to the sight and sounds of flights of Alpine Swift coming and going from their crevice nest-sites.  Other breeding birds here include Short-toed Eagle, Booted Eagle, Peregrine, Crag Martin, Hoopoe, Melodious Warbler, Raven, Dipper, Rock Bunting and Cirl Bunting.  A super area for butterflies too, including Chequered Blue and Duke of Burgundy. 

Day 8: depending upon flight/train times, a local walk in the morning or perhaps a stop en route to the airport/rail station. 

(The bird species mentioned above are just a sample of the many that we will discover).